Thursday, May 15, 2008

Villa Franca del Bierzo

We walked all day in the rain. got so wet we could not get worse without taking off the rain gear that was keeping us a little dry on top. The walk was long and for some people jsut a little to much. An irish woman has decided to go home and is looking for a bus but it might not come today. she is very unhappy. Also ahother woman came into the refugio, looked at the fact that only top bunks were available, and she tossed her backpack to the ground in frustration.

Idealy pilgrims should be grateful for whatever hospitality is provided and for the most part that is the attitude of most of us most of the time. but at times we all have bad days when we want to feel entitled. I spend 6 euro´s on the bed, I should get the bunk I want.

this morning I was ready to hit a pilgrim with my walking stick. I was asleep in my top bunk when at 6:30 he decided that we should all get up and he turned on the overhead light hitting me right in the eyes. I thought I was seeing the bright lights of heaven or of a police interagation.

Oh, well. It was time to get up anyway and I was grateful for the nights sleep.

Buen Camino

Michael

p.s. I may not be able to post for a day or so as we go up to a small mountian village tomorrow. should be beautiful and difficult, especially if it rains like today.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Ponferrada

Jess and I just finished dinner in Ponferrada. It has been a good day. I was very close to the city from my walk last night so I took a very slow pace the 12k to the refugio. I was there by 10:30, spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon looking around the city, at the cathedral, at the restored castle... I also got food at the supermarket, (nothing like cub!) and eating a small meal at a local bar. (that really is where everyone eats!)

Life in Spain is very different from life in America. the shops open at 10ish and close by 2 to open again at 5ish. then dinner begins, yes, begins at about 9pm! that is the time I am going to sleep! The shops here are, by and large, very small. A shop may sell only fruit, or veggies! A few are like dollar stores in th states. wine is sold in many places and many people seem to drink it all the time. Vino Tinto! it is almost a national saying!

tomorrow jess and I will begin the last 9 days or so on the Camino. We have a day of walking on mostly flat road and then a day walking up a mountain to a very beautiful little community in the mountains. I look forward to this. Most of our days from here on out will be about 20k with a few longer ones as well.

I hope all is well for you as you read this. I look forward to sharing this experience with you when I return, and yes, staff, I look forward to returning and thank you for your work while I am away.

blessings to all.
Michael

Cruz De Ferro

I carry stones today to the cross of iron. I begin at 7:30 to walk our of rabanal, one of my faviorate stops on the Camino and begin to assend. Purple, yellow and white flowers line the dirt walkway. Jess and I walk in silence, I´m listening to the music of Chant on my ipod. Mist appears sometimes so thick visability is down to less than half the length of St. Christopher´s nave. People appear out of the mist and disappear again. It takes 2 hours to rise the 350 meters. Mud occasionally obscures the path. We cross and recross a roadway. Occasionally we see a car in the distance. Powerlines hint at the cross but disappoint. then, suddenly out of the mist rising from a 15 foot pile of rocks and ext5ending 30 or more feet into the sky is Cruz De Ferro. People stand at the top of the rock pile and examine the wodden pole topped with a simple cross. Attached to the pole are many symbols of peoples grief. Photographs, childrens toys, cigarrette lighters, hankerchiefs. As I watch other items are added. A piece of slate with a name and words in spanish. A photo is taken. It is quiet here as people move about the cross.

I have been thinking theis morning of the rocks I carry. for Frances, my mom, for Lloyd my father in law. dorothy. fro those who added a stone to my pile. For pain and suffering, sadness. Hopes unrealized. for those we have loved and lost for those who have blessed our lives and taught us lessons. for those who brought us joy and helped us experience joy. for family pets and for all of the ways in which we have been blessed by life.

We walk away, occasionally looking back into the mist.

michael

Sunday, May 11, 2008

Astorga

We walked some 30k today and are very tired and we both have new blisters. My back hurts. Jessica´s sholders hurt. the wonderful thing is that with a good nights sleep we will both be good in the morning.

one funny thing. I went to wash my clothes in the albergues wash room this afternoon. this involves washing them in a sink, rinsing them in the same sink, ringing them out and hanging them on a line to day. With 3 pair of socks, two shirts and one undershirt this takes some time. All the time I was doing this work three older german man were trying to get a clothes dryer to work. I lef them at it to go to dinner with jess. such is life.

I am working on a blog about the roads we travel and the different kinds of surfaces we walk on. Hopefully I will post it in a few days.

love to everyone,

michael

Saturday, May 10, 2008

mazarife

The day dawned gray, cold and wet. We packed our things in the hotel, had coffee and started out of Leon. It was a wet and cold walk some 9k to a small town where we again had coffee and a bit of a rest. Out of the twon we had to decide, do we walk an extra 4k to a town I had stayed in 7 years ago and hated or do we go the other way along the road. Our guidebook suggested the longer way. We decided to go the longer way and soon the rain stopped, it got a bit warmer and we were walking through beautiful countryside instead of along a big highway. It was lovely.

The refuge I stayed in last time was kind of scary 7 years ago, exposed wiring, bad beds on the floor, and an ugly courtyard. As we entered the twon there was a lovely looking alberge on the right but we wanted to see the one I had stayed in before... I was not looking forward to Jessica saying she wanted to stay in it becaude the cost was the cheapest of the 3 places in to town, ( I do love my creature comforts) We walked up to the place and what a difference 7 years makes. A beautiful front with much artwork lead to a clean and hospitable albergue with bunk beds, tow kitchens and internet! I told the people I had stayed there 7 years ago and they found my name in the record book!

Just goes to show you that you never know what to expect. Tomorrow we walk some 30k to Astorga, it is our longest walk of the journey so keep us in your prayers.

Blessings, Michael

Friday, May 9, 2008

Camino thoughts from Leon

We are staying in Leon today and taking a kind of vacation from the walk. this is the first day without walking since we began. feels kind of good.

Camino thoughts:

1. We have more than we need
2. pleasure comes in small things like showers in a room you can lock.
3. strangers often help without really knowing it.
4. a breeze can be a blessing
5. others work for our good fortune.
6. Sleep will come to all, when tired enough
7. On the road friendships come and go quickly.
8. Just doing nothing is good at times
9. resoursefulness is helpful when traveling.
10. tired feet can keep you from important things.
11. it is good to travel with a friend and most people will find one on the road.
12. planning helps but not too much.
13. walking early in the day is wonderful.
14. a common language is a good thing.
15. laughter almost always helps.
16. small towns can bless as big as large towns.

blessings,
Michael

Thursday, May 8, 2008

Rain in Leon

When we got into the town of Leon it was a good day with some sun and a good deal of clouds. We sat and had a drink while we watched the people go by for a good long time, having a little snack as well. We said hello to many pilgrims who also walked by. Our hotel is near the Leon Cathedral and we will spend some time in the church tomorrow. We did not go in today I think because we thought it would be good do see the church on a sunny day and becasue jess has her birthday tomorrow.

Leon Cathedral is a gothic structure well known for its stained glass. I am hopeful that tomorrow will have a good bit of sun so that we can enjoy the light in the church. We shall see. One thing I have learned again on the Camino is that you cannot plan to far in advance. But I also know that the Camino provides. yesterday Jess was feeling poorly and just when her energy was kind of low we met a pilgrim who we knew and who walked the rest of the way into the town with us, taking Jess´s mind off of her poor feelings. today we did the same for another pilgrim who had misjudged the distance she had to travel and was sitting beside the road no knowing where to go. she is dutch and was very happy to walk into the town with us. the way, the Camino, life, provides, we just do not always see how life provides for us because we are too busy to notice.

Have a good rest of your day,

Michael