Jess and I are in Belorados today. We walked 20k the 7k than 16k in the last three days. It felt like a vacation after spending two days walking 27k and 29k in the heat. We are staying in a kind of motel 6 refugio today. strange. My blister is better and Jess has only one on her toe. it only sometimes slows her down. Last night we stayed in a very wonderful place. Granon. We slept in the bell tower of the local church, has a group meal with some 50 people speaking some 6 or more languages, night prayers in the choir loft and a morning breakfast of coffee and toast. We helped make dinner, helped pilgrims as they arrived, read a lot and mostly just enjoyed ourselves. Tomorrow we take one most step towards Burgos which is some 48 miles away. I hope and trust you are all having a good spring, although I did here that snow fell yet again.
blessings,
Monday, April 28, 2008
a pilgrims day, Saturday April 26
Wake to packing, flashlights first then full overheads. mumbled conversations in many languages. bathroom, toothpaste, packing up and out the door. Yellow arrows on old buildings, tree lined path, red clay and rocks, rescue snail, vineyards, olives, hay, flowers, 5k. A small friendly town, three bars, 2 with breakfast, cafe con lache, rolls, naranja, groups of pilgrims, locals smoking, hola, buen Camino. Down the road to long hot stretches with blue sky mountains in the distance and small hills to climb, dog poop, beetles, flowers and road. BLISTer hurts, birds on the wing, heat. gold course?, beer and back to the road 6k to go, hills and rocks and moving slower, power lines and a view from a distance, lost ,regained,city with church in the center. destination. Park, toes wiggling, hotel, shower, nap, wake to cathedral bells and famous chickens, a walk, conversations, dinner, bath, sleep...
Friday, April 25, 2008
blistering day
Today was a blistering day. It was a long, hot walk to Najera. We walked about 29k and almost all of it was on hardpan. I developed a blister on the footpad of my left foot. it is very tender. We will walk less tomorrow and I am staying off of it tonight as well as doctoring it. Aside from the distance and the blister it was a wonderful day. we began early and walked about half the way in beautiful tree lined lanes. Once outside the city it was wonderful and we loved the quiet and cool of the morning. it was only the afternoon that took its toll. I think 29k is just not good.
We met an older couple today who are just hitting the highlights of the camino as they walked the entire thing in 2006. This time they were going to do the pass from St. Jean to Ronsevelles but they got into bad weather and the woman almost died of hypotherma. She tells the story noting how easy it was to slip into a state of not caring about living or dying. she says the near death experience has given her a calm about death she did not have before.
The Camino gives each one the lessons they need perhaps. Her husband is glad that is over!
blessings to all of you this day.
michael
We met an older couple today who are just hitting the highlights of the camino as they walked the entire thing in 2006. This time they were going to do the pass from St. Jean to Ronsevelles but they got into bad weather and the woman almost died of hypotherma. She tells the story noting how easy it was to slip into a state of not caring about living or dying. she says the near death experience has given her a calm about death she did not have before.
The Camino gives each one the lessons they need perhaps. Her husband is glad that is over!
blessings to all of you this day.
michael
Thursday, April 24, 2008
A long day
We walked 8 hours today, 27K. The road was good but it was hot and we had to take a number of breaks along the way. All in all it was a good day but tiring. We are in Logrono tonight and will be looking for food shortly. Dinner in spain does not start until 9 pm, so we will not be dining out as the refugio closes at 10 and I do not want to be locked out!
It takes a lot of energy just to walk as much as we have been walking and we find ourselves with just enough energy to clean our clothes, take a shower, eat and relax for awhile before bed around 10 pm.
When you walk this long and far it is easy to feel all the aches and pains of your life and to think about your mortality. Not in a bad way but in a way that simply makes you appreciate your life at this moment in time. I am very happy to be walking here at this time. And, No blisters or other health problems. All is good and God is a blessing.
Michael
It takes a lot of energy just to walk as much as we have been walking and we find ourselves with just enough energy to clean our clothes, take a shower, eat and relax for awhile before bed around 10 pm.
When you walk this long and far it is easy to feel all the aches and pains of your life and to think about your mortality. Not in a bad way but in a way that simply makes you appreciate your life at this moment in time. I am very happy to be walking here at this time. And, No blisters or other health problems. All is good and God is a blessing.
Michael
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Sorry to hear the news from home
I learned of the death of Joub Erickson yesterday and am sorry to here this bad news. Joub was one of the first people I met at St. Christopher´s and as he was deeply involved in the finances of the parish at the time I got to know him well. He will be deeply missed by his family and by so many others. I will hold him in prayer tonight at the pilgrim mass in Los Arcos.
Blessings, Michael
Blessings, Michael
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
a night to remember
Jess and I had a night to remember last night. Late in the day we decided to take a short side trip to a small town called Enuete. It is basically a 12th century church related to the knights templar and a small hermitage attached. The hermitage is a refugio and holds only a few people each night. We arrived at about 2 and decided to stay and wait the 3 hours until the refugio opened. Shortly before 5 three spanish people arrived in a car and started to talk very quickly and basically to confuse Jess and I along with a Swiss woman who was waiting with us. then at 5 a french man named John, (jean), arrived, opened up and let us and one other pilgrim stay the night. The other pilgrim was a man from chile. 4 pilgrims! John cooked a three course meal for us and took us at the end of the evening to a the church for night prayers. We all had a part and the atmosphere inside the old church was electric. the sound went off the walls and bounced back to us. the prayers were wonderful. We then slept soundly and woke refreshed. Breakfast was served by John and we were off, feeling very much cared for. We were invited to pay what we felt we could and that was that.
both of us felt blessed by John and by the conversation with both of the other pilgrims. As jess said, a once in a lifetime experience.
today we are in Estelle, having walked a long way. We will rest and eat a good meal and then it is off to the next stop. No blisters so far and only a small amount of pain in my legs. A blessed camino to this point.
michael
both of us felt blessed by John and by the conversation with both of the other pilgrims. As jess said, a once in a lifetime experience.
today we are in Estelle, having walked a long way. We will rest and eat a good meal and then it is off to the next stop. No blisters so far and only a small amount of pain in my legs. A blessed camino to this point.
michael
Sunday, April 20, 2008
a good short day
Today was a good short day on the Camino. We walked about 13 miles but it did not seem like that far because it was mostly level walking. We did get into some mud and I fell twice but caught myself enough that nothing bad happened. At the end of the walk we found ourselves in a medieval street fair and felt right at home. we got some bread and had that for a lunch along the way. Today we also spent a good deal of time walking with other pilgrims. The eraly part of the wak was with young people from America and Germany, and the last was with an older Irishman and a brit. all in all it was a good day. tonight we are in a good large refugio and enjoying ourselves. We think of you often and hope you are all well. Life is good and my hips are sore!
Michael
Michael
Saturday, April 19, 2008
April 19 first walk
yesterday we traveled bymetro and bus to our starting place, Roncevalles. We began the bus ride at 10:30 and arrived at 7 pm. We checked in to the refugio and went to the pilgrim mass. The priest said Eucharist, invited us all to recieve and then gave us a traditional pilgrim blessing. it was a good blessing. Statues of the Virgin Mary, St. James, and Jesus watched as we participated in the very ancient tradition. Today we walked our first walk. 13 miles to Zubiri. Ϩt was a good walk, kind of cold and just enough up and down to let our legs know that they had work to do. We were the first to reach the refugio and found good beds for the night. since then we have eaten, read some, and talked to the other pilgrims. many germans are with us and several speak both german and english. it has been fun to converse and laugh at the challenges we faced like a lot of mud.
I want to say a word about gratitude. I found myself being grateful for small things more than usual today. grateful for the people who waymark the train and for those who helped make a way in the mud or over a small stream. I think I often forget to be grateful because most of the time I am not having to do difficult things like walk so much. Tomorrow we go to Pamplona. We may take a rest day after that, we will see.
All is well. Blessings to all of you.
Michael
I want to say a word about gratitude. I found myself being grateful for small things more than usual today. grateful for the people who waymark the train and for those who helped make a way in the mud or over a small stream. I think I often forget to be grateful because most of the time I am not having to do difficult things like walk so much. Tomorrow we go to Pamplona. We may take a rest day after that, we will see.
All is well. Blessings to all of you.
Michael
Thursday, April 17, 2008
April 17 in Spain
We made it to Spain today. the flight was good and we had no trouble with the metro system. Once off the train we were assisted to the hotel by a nice Spanish woman. She spoke Spanish and we listened, then tried to find our way using her hand signs, mostly. A few minutes later she saw us again, floundering and she walked us most of the way to the hotel. A Blessing. Later in the day we tried to stay awake by walking and at one point I was looking in a store window when a Spanish man who seemed less that all put together began to make gutteral sounds around me. then he shoved me. Jess and I decided to walk around the block and avoid further trouble. sometimes walking away is the best solution to a problem.
Spain is lovely at this time of year. the trees are fully leafed out and flowers line the streets. It rained on and off today but only once did it mean we had to take cover. We are in the old part of town and all of the buildings are very old with much history. If today is a sign of what is to come, we should have a very blessed Camino. Tomorrow we travel by bus to our starting point and the next day we begin to walk.
blessings from Spain.
Spain is lovely at this time of year. the trees are fully leafed out and flowers line the streets. It rained on and off today but only once did it mean we had to take cover. We are in the old part of town and all of the buildings are very old with much history. If today is a sign of what is to come, we should have a very blessed Camino. Tomorrow we travel by bus to our starting point and the next day we begin to walk.
blessings from Spain.
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
Flying
Jess and I fly to Spain today. It's going to be a long day. As we begin I am reminded of something I read in a Cultural handbook for the Camino by Gitlitz and Davidson:
The Road has no beginning,
and the Road has no end.
The towns they run together
and they run apart again.
right now is the only moment,
and Time is the time to go
and make yourself a pilgrim
on the Road to Santiago.
Buen camino
The Road has no beginning,
and the Road has no end.
The towns they run together
and they run apart again.
right now is the only moment,
and Time is the time to go
and make yourself a pilgrim
on the Road to Santiago.
Buen camino
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Pilgrim Credentials
It's Sunday night and I've just packed my backpack yet again! Each time I pack I have to really ask myself, are the items I've chosen the best for this trip? This morning I weighed the pack, it was 17 pounds which is the outside of what I want to carry. Tonight I looked for ways to reduce the weight. I tossed a few small things but unless I want to make very different choices, I think I'm going to be near 17 pounds. The pack felt good today as I walked for about 2 hours. I'll be walking Monday and Tuesday and leaving for Spain on Wednesday.
I have my pilgrim credentials from the American Pilgrims on the Camino and the back of the little booklet contains this prayer from the Codex Calixtinus, (12th century pilgrim guide):
"God, You called your servant Abraham from Ur in the Chaldea, watching over him in all his wanderings, and guided the Hebrew people as they crossed the desert. Guard these your children who, for love of your Name, make a pilgrimage to Compostela. Be their companion on the way, their guide at the crossroads, their strength in weariness, their defense in dangers, their shelter on the path, their shade in heat, their light in darkness, their comfort in discouragement, and the firmness of their intentions; that through your guidance, they may arrive safely at the end of their journey and, enriched with graces and virtues, may return to their homes filled with salutary and lasting joy."
With just a few days left before traveling to Spain, I pray this prayer with deep felt wishes for a blessed Camino. Soon the road begins...
I have my pilgrim credentials from the American Pilgrims on the Camino and the back of the little booklet contains this prayer from the Codex Calixtinus, (12th century pilgrim guide):
"God, You called your servant Abraham from Ur in the Chaldea, watching over him in all his wanderings, and guided the Hebrew people as they crossed the desert. Guard these your children who, for love of your Name, make a pilgrimage to Compostela. Be their companion on the way, their guide at the crossroads, their strength in weariness, their defense in dangers, their shelter on the path, their shade in heat, their light in darkness, their comfort in discouragement, and the firmness of their intentions; that through your guidance, they may arrive safely at the end of their journey and, enriched with graces and virtues, may return to their homes filled with salutary and lasting joy."
With just a few days left before traveling to Spain, I pray this prayer with deep felt wishes for a blessed Camino. Soon the road begins...
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
books
I've recently read two good first person accounts of pilgrim walks to Santiago. If you are interested the first one is available, (I got it in a local used book store), the other would be difficult to find.
1. fumbling by Kerry Egan. she is a young woman who walked the Camino in 1999 a year after her father's death. the subtitle says a lot about the book, "a Pilgrimage tale of love, grief, and spriitual renewal on the Camino de SAantiago.
2. El Camino De santiago: rites of Passage by Wayne Chimenti. Wayne is a boat captain in Washington state and I think the book was a small print addition. My brother-in-law met Wayne and got a signed copy for me.
there are other interesting and at times strange books on the Camino, you might want to do a amazon.com search if you are interested.
a week til we fly out... walking every day now. all is well
blessings
1. fumbling by Kerry Egan. she is a young woman who walked the Camino in 1999 a year after her father's death. the subtitle says a lot about the book, "a Pilgrimage tale of love, grief, and spriitual renewal on the Camino de SAantiago.
2. El Camino De santiago: rites of Passage by Wayne Chimenti. Wayne is a boat captain in Washington state and I think the book was a small print addition. My brother-in-law met Wayne and got a signed copy for me.
there are other interesting and at times strange books on the Camino, you might want to do a amazon.com search if you are interested.
a week til we fly out... walking every day now. all is well
blessings
Friday, April 4, 2008
c.s.lewis
Yesterday while reading a book on classical devotional material I ran into a quote from C.S. Lewis that I though I might share.
Speaking about developing a spiritual life Lewis says: "...the real problem of the Christian life comes where people do not usually look for it. It comes the very moment you wake up each morning. All your wishes and hopes for the day rush at you like wild animals. And the first job each morning consists simply in shoving them all back; in listening to tat other voice, taking that other point of view, letting that other larger, stronger, quieter life come flowing in. And so on, all day. Standing back from all your natural fussings and frettings; coming in our of the wind."
As I continue to get ready for Spain, walking, planning, packing, ETC. I want to remember shove back at the fussing to enjoy the grace of God.
Michael+
Speaking about developing a spiritual life Lewis says: "...the real problem of the Christian life comes where people do not usually look for it. It comes the very moment you wake up each morning. All your wishes and hopes for the day rush at you like wild animals. And the first job each morning consists simply in shoving them all back; in listening to tat other voice, taking that other point of view, letting that other larger, stronger, quieter life come flowing in. And so on, all day. Standing back from all your natural fussings and frettings; coming in our of the wind."
As I continue to get ready for Spain, walking, planning, packing, ETC. I want to remember shove back at the fussing to enjoy the grace of God.
Michael+
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
Walking and walking
Well, I've been doing a good bit of walking the past several weeks, but not enough! I got a cold right at the start of my sabbatical and it's been hanging around giving me fits! Also, the weather has not been really good but looks better for the next week. I plan to do several long walks with my pack this week.
Along with walking I've been enjoying "talking" via the web with many others who are taking the trip this year. If you are really interested in this walk and might someday want to do it your self I suggest you get on the web and go to the following website: http://www.csj.org.uk/. It is for a group called the confraternity of St. James and is based in England. the discussion page is the best place to find information. I have also found a lot of fun information on youtube. Just type in Camino de Santiago and see what you find.
Well, better get walking again.
Michael+
Along with walking I've been enjoying "talking" via the web with many others who are taking the trip this year. If you are really interested in this walk and might someday want to do it your self I suggest you get on the web and go to the following website: http://www.csj.org.uk/. It is for a group called the confraternity of St. James and is based in England. the discussion page is the best place to find information. I have also found a lot of fun information on youtube. Just type in Camino de Santiago and see what you find.
Well, better get walking again.
Michael+
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